Chủ Nhật, 30 tháng 7, 2017

10 SECRET ONSEN (THAT AREN'T so SECRET NOW THAT WE'VE TOLD YOU ABOUT THEM)

A while ago, we told you about the best onsen resort towns in Japan. These are well-known, popular hot spring baths that anyone with a pulse and an Internet connection can find. That was uninteresting to me. If anyone can find them, then what's the point? (well, besides relaxation and extreme pampering, that is.)
秘湯(ひとう)
SECRET ONSEN
Usually, these popular onsen towns are expensive and crowded. So I got to work on finding hot spring baths that are unknown; the kinds of places shared between hardcore onsen otaku on the onsen darknet.
A lot of emails, some light torture, and a couple of bribes later, I had my list of secret onsen, which I'll be referring to as hitou 秘湯ひとう from here on out.
 – "secret" (pronounced "hi" )
 – "bath" or "hot water" (pronounced "tou" とう or "yu" )
Hitou are tough to get to and they can be dangerous depending on the location. At best, getting to one involves several transfers and modes of transportation. More likely though, you'll have to take a train, a bus, and then hike for several hours. So even though I'm revealing the locations to you, it can still be difficult to get to them.
But if you do make it to a hitou, you're basically guaranteed your own private onsen, surrounded by a stunning nature scene in every direction.
A NOT-SO-FRIENDLY WORD OF WARNING:
If you do go, I implore you to do extra research as well. And make sure you're prepared. Transportation can be less than ideal, and cell signal will likely be nonexistent. If you're hiking, bring the right gear (i.e. towels, headlamps, bug spray, snacks, etc). Do your research on surviving bear attacks (seriously, depending on where you go). And, because these onsen are mostly "wild," there may not be a temperature control system. You can get scalded, or even boiled, if you're not careful. Use common sense and be careful! We're not responsible if you die or get injured!
Still want to dip your toe in after all that? Let's put on our hiking boots (then take them off again when we get there) and look at Japan's ten best hitou.

OKUOKU HACHIKURŌ ONSEN: "WILD ONSEN HOLES"

beautiful outdoor onsen with red water
Source: Yoomi Kim
Okuoku Hachikurō Onsen 奥奥八九郎温泉おくおくはちくろうおんせん is a wild hitou discovered in 1974 when scientists were researching black ore. The water gushing from this hot spring is probably too hot for most (around 44 °C / 111 °F), so don't blame us if you get (literally) burned. However, if you can handle it, the carbon dioxide shoots up from the bottom, acting as a natural jacuzzi and it can be quite a remarkable experience.
If this hole is too hot you can find other holes in the area, so pick the one that works best for you. No matter which one you choose, the surrounding national forest sports beautiful and relaxing view of the woods.
Pro Tips
  • Avoid this hitou during summer because horseflies love the smell of carbon (and they can get bitey).
  • Autumn is the best season thanks to the colors of the forest leaves.
  • It's a totally "wild" onsen, so it's okay if you wear a swimsuit or bath towel.
  • It's mixed gender.
  • This secret onsen can be reached by car.
  • From some comments on the Internet, it seems to have had been roped-off by local residents for a while because of visitors' bad manners. So do your research first before you visit (and don't become the reason they close it off again!).

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Address:
018-5200 秋田県鹿角市小坂町小坂
Kosaka, Kosakamachi, Kazuno, Akita Prefecture 018-5200, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Morioka Station, Tohoku Jidoshado (118 km, 1h 50min)

TAKAMINE ONSEN: "HITOU ABOVE THE CLOUDS"

secret onsen in the mountains
Source: Kenji Baba
IF YOU DECIDE TO STAY FOR A NIGHT (OR TWO OR THREE), YOU CAN SEE BA-JA-BA-JILLIONS OF STARS.
Takamine Onsen 高峰温泉たかみねおんせん is a hitou 6,560 feet above sea level. You can actually look down at the clouds while soaking. The Takamine Onsen is part of a hotel of the same name, so you can either stay at the hotel or walk in during business hours to gain access. Even if you don't spend the night there, it's a great spot to pop in for a bit of relaxation in between hiking, snowshoeing, or skiing in the winter. Not only do you get a splendid view of the mountains, you'll also see wild alpine plants and animals you won't find in any city, thanks to the high elevation.
Pro Tips:
  • If you decide to stay for a night (or two or three), you can see ba-ja-ba-jillions of stars. Stargazing sessions (telescopes provided) are hosted by the hotel.
  • Despite being in the middle of nowhere, this hotel has Wi-Fi. But why would you ruin the relaxation by spending any of your time Snapchatting?
  • Compared to the other secret onsen, it's surprisingly easy to access. You can hop on an express bus from Shinjuku station to take you to the hotel directly. They also offer a snow vehicle shuttle service from a nearby ski resort during winter.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Takamine Onsen
Telephone: (+81) 0267-25-2000
Address:
384-0041 長野県小諸市高峰高原
Takamine Kogen, Komoro, Nagano Prefecture 384-0041, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Shinjuku Station, JR Bus (4hrs)
  • From Sakudaira Station, JR Bus (1hr)
  • For more details, visit Takamine Onsen's access page

SHIKARIBETSUKYO ONSEN SHIKANOYU: "WILD ONSEN BY THE RIVER"

wild hitou surrounded by autumn leaves
Source: Yoomi Kim
Shikaribetsu Onsen Shikanoyu 然別峡温泉しかりべつきょうおんせん 鹿の湯しか ゆ is a natural outdoor onsen that is available only from July 1st to September 30th (this is when it is cleaned and maintained). It is green in color, which indicates it has a high concentration of mineral deposits. This hitou is located next to a river and is surrounded by forests. The feeling of "wilderness" is strong with this one.
Pro Tips:
  • This hitou is located within a camp site. You can stay here for ¥250 a night. Bring your own gear though.
  • This is a "wild" onsen, so you are allowed to wear a swimsuit.
  • It is, of course, mixed gender.
  • Great to visit with friends who are on summer vacation!
  • This hitou has a history of suddenly closing due to bears and typhoons (not to mention bearphoons). Please check the campground's website or contact them in advance to make sure it's open.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Shikaoi Town Tourism Association
Telephone: (+81) 0156-66-4034
Address:
081-0200 北海道河東郡鹿追町然別峡
Shikaribetsukyo, Shikaoicho, Kato, Hokkaido Prefecture 081-0344, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Tokachi-Obihiro Airport(OBO), Obihiro Hiro Jidoshado (86.5 km, 1h 40min)

UBAYU ONSEN MASUGATAYA RYOKAN: "HITOU OF THE OLD MOUNTAIN HAG"

secret onsen hitou in japan
Source: Kenji Baba
山姥(やまんば)
OLD MOUNTAIN HAG
Ubayu Onsen Masugataya Ryokan 姥湯温泉うばゆおんせん 桝形屋旅館ますがたやりょかん is a historical hotel run by a 17th generation owner. They have two open-air baths, and the one with milky blue water (pictured above on the right) is called the bath of the yamanba 山姥やまんば (old mountain hag). Yamanbas are featured in many Japanese folktales, and it's said they eat people in the mountains.
According to a legend told by the hotel's first owner, who was a miner, he stumbled upon the hitou while looking for a mineral vein. He got captured by a yamanba who told him to guard the bath. I guess he took yamanba lemons and made lemonade, because now there's a hotel there.
Pro Tips:
  • Be sure to enjoy the surrounding cliffs. Most bathers find them breathtaking. They also look like they're about to collapse on you at any moment.
  • Both open-air baths are mixed gender, but you're allowed to wrap your body with a bath towel.
  • Non-hotel guest walk-ins are welcome between 9:30am and 3:30pm, but as always, be sure to contact the hotel ahead of time.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Ubayu Onsen Masugataya Ryokan
Telephone: (+81) 0238-35-2633
Address:
992-1303 山形県米沢市大沢姥湯1
1 Osawa Ubayu, Yonezawa, Yamagata Prefecture 992-1303, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Tokyo to Toge, JR Tohoku Shinkansen & JR Ou Line (2h 20min)
  • From Toge, Shuttle service *Hotel guests only, need a reservation (25min)
  • From Toge, walk (8km, 2h 20min) *The hiking route doesn't have service.
  • From Tohoku Jidoshado Fukushima Iizaka I.C, R13 (1hr)
  • For more details, visit Ubayu Onsen Masugataya Ryokan's access page

KAWARAGEJIGOKU ŌYUTAKI: "WILD WATERFALL ONSEN"

waterfall pouring in japanese hitou
Source: Yoomi Kim
Kawaragejigoku Ōyutaki 川原毛地獄 大湯滝かわらげじごく おおゆだき is an especially rare hitou because it is also a waterfall. Hot springs flow from 0.6 miles away and mix with river water, before falling 65 feet into the bath. The acidity of the spring is so strong it can affect your skin or eyes, so make sure not to splash your friends.
Surrounding this secret onsen are gigantic rocks, and the area is known for volcanic activity. Save some time to walk around. This area, called as Kawaragejigoku, is one of the three greatest spiritual spots in Japan.
Pro Tips:
  • This wild onsen is mixed gender, so bring a swimsuit.
  • Summer is the best time to visit because of the temperature of the water. It's a little on the lukewarm side, coming in at around 37.78ºC / 100ºF, but it can get even cooler after a rainfall.
  • This hitou is generally roped-off between November and the beginning of May. Be sure to check ahead of time.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Yuzawa City
Address:
019-0404 秋田県湯沢市高松川原毛
Kawarage, Takamatsu, Yuzawa, Akita Prefecture 019-0404, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Tokyo Station to Yuzawa Station, JR Akita Shinkansen & Ou Line (4h 20min)
  • From Yuzawa Station, R51 (26.3 km, 1h 23 min)
  • From Kawarage Jigoku Parking, walk (15min)

OKUKINU ONSENKYŌ TESHIROSAWA ONSEN: "EXCLUSIVE RELAXATION AFTER A THREE HOUR HIKE"

gorgeous japanese hitou in a forest
Source: Yoomi Kim
THE LIMITED CAPACITY MEANS YOU WILL GET A LOT OF PRIVACY AND A LOT OF SPACE, SO YOU CAN TRULY ENJOY THE SURROUNDING NATURE.
Okukinu Onsenkyo Teshirosawa Onsen 奥鬼怒温泉郷 手白澤温泉おくきぬおんせんきょう てしろさわおんせん is a hitou hotel located in Nikko National Park. Since you're not allowed to drive in the park, you'll have to hike for two or three hours from the closest bus stop. This is an easy, pleasant hike that will take you through forests of beech and oak alongside a clear, mountain stream. At the end you'll reach the Teshirosawa Onsen Hotel, where, hopefully, you'll have a reservation. They don't accept walk-ins so book ahead of time!
This hotel has four onsen (indoor and outdoor for each gender), but only six rooms for guests. The limited capacity (that's an enviable 3:2 room-to-onsen ratio!) means you will get a lot of privacy and a lot of space, so you can truly enjoy the surrounding nature. Even though this hotel is in the middle of nowhere, it is incredibly clean and well-maintained. You'll be in for a comfortable, luxurious stay.
Pro Tips:
  • I did say you had to hike, but you can actually hail a Kawamata Taxi (local cab service) and get there for ¥15,000 (that's about $150 USD). It's a wagon style cab, so it might be a good option for large groups of people (ten people max per cab).
  • Be sure to use the onsen at night to experience "a blanket of stars."

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Okukinu Onsenkyo Teshirosawa Onsen
Telephone: (+81) 0288-96-0156
Address:
321-2717 栃木県日光市川俣870-2 手白澤温泉
870 Kawamata, Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture 321-2717, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Asakusa Station to Kinugawa Onsen Station, Tobu Line (2hrs)
  • From Kinugawa Onsen Station to Meotobuchi Onsen Bus Stop, Nikko Municipal Bus (1h 35min)
  • From Meotobuchi Onsen Bus Stop, walk (2h 30min)
  • From Kinugawa Onsen Station, Kawamata Taxi
  • For more details, visit Okukinu Onsenkyo Teshirosawa Onsen's access page

TENGU NO YU: "THE HITOU DISCOVERED BY TENGU"

tengu mask in a japanese hot spring
Source: Kenji Baba
Tengunoyu 天狗の湯てんぐ ゆ is a mixed gender bath surrounded by tengu masks inside the Kita Onsen Ryokan. Apparently, this onsen was originally discovered by tengu over 1,200 years ago and the theme stuck ever since.
The hot spring itself is sourced from the mountain located directly behind the bathhouse. This means you'll be enjoying truly "fresh" hot water. It's also a perfect bath for those trying to conceive, since tengu are considered lucky when it comes to having healthy children.
Pro Tips:
  • There are other baths here as well, including the huge outdoor "onsen pool."
  • FYI: both genders can go in either, naked or not!
  • There are old buildings around here, some of which are over 160 years old! They're interesting to look at if you feel like walking around.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Kita Onsen Ryokan
Telephone: (+81) 0287-76-2008
Address: 325-0301 栃木県那須郡那須町湯本151
151 Yumoto, Nasu-machi, Nasu, Tochigi Prefecture 325-0301, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Tokyo Station to Nasushiobara Station, JR Tohoku Shinkansen (1h 10min)
  • From Nasushiobara Station to Kitayu Iriguchi Bus Stop, Toya Kotsu (1h 40min)
  • From Kitayu Iriguchi Bus Stop, Walk (1km, 12min)
  • From Tohoku Jidoshado Nasu IC, R17 (30min)

NYUTŌ ONSENKYŌ TSURUNOYU ONSEN: "MILKY ONSEN IN DEEP SNOW"

beautiful japanese onsen in snow
Source: Kenji Baba
Nyutō Onsenkyō Tsurunoyu Onsen 乳頭温泉郷にゅうとうおんせんきょう 鶴の湯温泉つる ゆおんせん is one of the oldest onsen in Nyutō Onsen village. It's even recorded in a document from the Edo period. Ironically, it's the most well-known hitou in Japan (so maybe it's not a hitou after all) as it's often featured on TV and in magazines. Popular YouTuber Sharla in Japan even introduced it on her channel.
Pro Tips:
  • This resort has five different onsen, some indoor, some outdoor, fed by four separate springs.
  • The main onsen is big and open-air, with milky white water, which is mixed gender (though there's another that is women-only).
  • During the winter, I recommend soaking in the onsen while watching the snow fall.
  • Non-hotel guests can use this onsen, but I think it's worth staying here if you can. The rooms and the food are worth the price of admission. They have classic irori fireplaces where they cook traditional meals using local ingredients.

HOUSHI ONSEN CHŌJUKAN: "WOODEN BATHHOUSE WITH AN EAST-MEETS-WEST AESTHETIC"

indoor onsen in wooden building
Source: C.K. Tse
THE BOTTOM IS PAVED WITH STONES AND YOU CAN FEEL THE HOT SPRING GUSHING UP FROM BENEATH THEM.
Houshi Onsen Chōjukan 法師温泉 長寿館ほうしおんせん ちょうじゅかん is another "well-known" hitou in Japan. The wooden bathhouse and the hotel buildings are designated as 登録有形文化財とうろくゆうけいぶんかざい (a tangible cultural property). It was built in the Meiji period and has an East-meets-West sort of aesthetic. This makes the architecture alone a worthwhile experience.
There are six onsen in this bathhouse. The most popular is called Houshinoyu. The bottom is paved with stones and you can feel the hot spring gushing up from beneath them.
Pro Tips:
  • Usually it is a mixed gender bathhouse and you're not allowed to wrap yourself with a towel.
  • For two hours a night, it becomes women only.
  • Walk-ins are sometimes accepted. It probably depends on the day. Don't forget to call ahead if you plan to visit without staying at the hotel. Actually, consider just staying here!
  • Recently, it was featured in the movie Thermae Romae II and it's not too far from Tokyo. This has made it quite popular recently, and one might question its status as "hitou." Perhaps things will calm down at some point in the future, though, and it will become hitou again.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Houshi Onsen Chōjukan
Telephone: (+81) 0278-66-0005
Address:
379-1401 群馬県利根郡みなかみ町永井650
650 Nagai, Minakami, Tone District, Gunma Prefecture 379-1401, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Tokyo Station to Jomokogen Station, JR Joetsu Shinkansen (1h 5min)
  • From Jomokogen Station to Sarugakyo Bus Stop, Kanetsu Kotsu Bus (40min)
  • From Sarugakyo Bus Stop to Hoshi Bus Stop, Minakami Town Bus (15min)

KOGANEZAKI FURŌFUSHI ONSEN: "GOLDEN ONSEN OF ETERNAL YOUTH TOUCHING THE SEA OF JAPAN"

outdoor onsen with rust water by sea of japan
Source: Hitachi-Train
Koganezaki Furōfushi Onsen 黄金崎不老ふ死温泉こがねざきふろう しおんせん is a golden water hitou located right on the Sea of Japan. Needless to say, you get an incredible view of the ocean, especially when it turns gold at sunrise and sunset. When this happens, the border between the hitou and ocean disappears, and you feel like you're bathing in one giant sea of gold.
Part of this hitou's name is 不老不死ふろうふし, which means "eternal youth and eternal life." Presumably this comes from the water's golden color, which is caused by iron in the spring. The concentration is so great it acts as a disinfectant, and keeps you warm even after bathing. Some think iron helps you to live longer, too. Whatever the case, the view of the ocean is all I needed to be convinced to go here.
Pro Tips:
  • This bath is owned by a hotel, but non-hotel guests can come as a walk-in customers and use it between 8:00am and 4:00pm.
  • There are two open-air baths, one for both genders and one for women only.
  • Unlike most mixed onsen, you are allowed to use a towel to wrap yourself even when inside the bath.
  • Aside from a lot of fresh seafood, and this life-extending hitou, there's not much else around here. But, what else do you really need in life, right?

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

Website: Koganezaki Furōfushi Onsen
Telephone: (+81) 0173-74-3500
Address:
038-2327 青森県西津軽郡深浦町大字舮作字下清滝15
15-1 Shimokiyotaki, Henashi, Fukaura-machi, Nishitsugaru-gun, Aomori Prefecture 038-2327, Japan
📍 MAP
Access:
  • From Tokyo to WeSPa Tsubakiyama, JR Akita/Tohoku Shinkansen & JR Gono Line (7hrs)
  • From WeSPa Tsubakiyama to Koganezaki Furōfushi Onsen, Shuttle bus
  • From JR Shin-Aomori Station to Koganezaki Furōfushi Onsen, Shuttle bus (3hrs)
  • From Aomori City, R101 (2h 30min)
  • For more details, check Koganezaki Furōfushi Onsen's access page.

As you read about these hitou, you may be thinking: "But now it's not a secret anymore! You've ruined it, Kanae!" Well, perhaps you are right. But to me, it's not the same as revealing a secret local restaurant in Tokyo that anyone can go to easily.
Hitou, by their very nature, are all difficult to get to. Most people won't go through the trouble to get there even if they do know about them. Only the most motivated people will go. If that's you, then I'm really happy I was able to help lead you to such a unique experience. If you successfully reach any of these hitou, you deserve it.

TRAVELING TO JAPAN for THE FIRST TIME: PLANNING A 1-2 WEEK TRIP

Traveling to Japan for the first time can be overwhelming. I understand! There's a lot to see and do. That's why I put together a "first-timers" Japan travel itinerary, built on my 20+ years of traveling to and from Japan.
This sample trip is for people heading to Japan for 1 to 2 weeks (which seems like the standard visit time for most people). Of course, there are so many things to see in Japan besides those featured on this trip itinerary. That's why I broke the travel plan into a 2 week stint so you can customize your vacation, removing and adding things as necessary.
That said, I hope this is helpful to those of you visiting Japan for the first time.

THINGS TO KNOW

There are a few important things to know that have nothing to do with the actual places. They are:

THE ROUTE

Whether you travel to Japan for one week or one-point-five weeks or two weeks, the general route stays the same. You'll do Tokyo area, then Kyoto, then Nara, then Koya, and then back to Tokyo. Throughout the route, I'll mark things as "optional" as well. If you're only staying a week, I'd recommend cutting out these things (unless you really want to go to them, then cut something else out). If you're staying for two weeks, you should be able to go to all of these places, and maybe even diverge off to other places. In fact, I highly encourage this! Go where you want – this route is merely a suggestion.
Also keep in mind that I'm just going to be providing locations. You'll have to do your own research as to how to get to them. Google and Google Maps helps a lot with this. I believe in you.

JR PASS

Whether you stay a week or two weeks, I'd recommend getting the JR Pass. This is like a magical golden ticket that gives you unlimited JR train rides (bullet train too) to anywhere around Japan. Not all things are free (for example, non JR trains as well as most subways), but if you take three rides on the Shinkansen that will usually make it worthwhile. You can get a JR Pass at jrpass.com (where I got my last one). Just be sure to take into account the time change when you schedule your ticket dates. Going to Japan involves traveling through both space and time.

FINDING PLACES TO STAY

I don't really cover places to stay in this article, just the places to go to. Finding someplace to stay is up to you, though there are plenty of resources out there that will help you. I recommend hostels for adventurers / students / people with no money (they're fun, cheap, and way less sketchy than other hostels I've been to). Guest houses are also great if you can find them. They tend to be a little cheaper than hotels, but the food / environments are a lot more interesting. And interesting is what you want when you travel to Japan.

PACKING

Since this is a pretty standard trip, most of the places are going to be pretty bag friendly. I wouldn't bring a ton (lots of hotels have washing machines too), and would definitely recommend a backpack or something with wheels. Don't make the mistake of bringing something you're not comfortable carrying up and down long flights of stairs. You will run into a lot of these getting on and off trains, so if your biceps are tiny, only pack whatever you can lift (preferably less). Also, bring a lightweight duffel bag (or you can buy one) for the optional shopping you can do at the end of your trip.
That being said, let's get started! You have some traveling to plan.

DAY 1: FLY INTO TOKYO

an airplane traveling to japan
Source: Vox Efx
Flying into Tokyo isn't terrible, but it isn't great either. Depending on where you're coming from, you may also be terribly jet lagged. If that's you and you're on the 2-week schedule, you get an extra day to take it easy in Tokyo. Nice. If that's not you, you better be ready to go. No rest for the weary. After getting to the airport, you'll need to go pick up your JR Pass (should be included with your ticket). If your flight comes in too late (and the ticket place is closed) I'd recommend shelling out the $30 or so to go into Tokyo without the JR Pass and get it the next day in the city.
Optional: You can also pick up a 3g hotspot / internet dongle for your computer if you'd like. Finding free wifi in Japan is a huge pain, and getting one of these will pay for itself if you need to do a lot of work, or something.
Once you've gotten your ticket, hop on the JR Narita Express (NEX) to Tokyo. When you get to Tokyo, check into wherever you're staying and scope things out. It's probably evening by now anyways, so do your best to unjetlag yourself and go to bed so you can wake up early.

DAY 2, 3, & 4: TOKYO

visiting shibuya crossing in japan
*If you're only staying for one week, cut out days 3 and 4 and then skip to Day 7. Alternatively, you could skip Day 2 as well and choose to do Day 5 or Day 6 (then your Tokyo time will be your shopping time on your way back). If you don't really care about big cities like Tokyo, skipping this section won't be too bad! :)
For the first few days, you'll be exploring Tokyo. So many people. So many things. Hopefully by the end of your Tokyo time you'll feel so tired of it you want to go somewhere nice and peaceful (don't worry, you will!). There are various areas of Tokyo worth visiting, and they're all quite easy to get to via the subway system. As long as you're not hitting it during rush hour, you'll probably have a great time scooting around. Since there are so many different tastes out there, I thought I'd list out the main places worth visiting in Tokyo, and then you can pick and choose what you like. I'll even sort them by areas.

CENTRAL TOKYO

Akihabara: This area should be on every nerd's Japan itinerary. It's famous for its electronic shops and otaku culture. So, if you're into either of these, this is a fun place to be. Make sure you look up, too. Lots of multi-story buildings filled with all kinds of weird things. You can spend a while walking around here.

NORTHERN TOKYO:

Asakusa: Asakusa has the feeling of an "old" Tokyo, I think. You can visit the Sensoji (famous Buddhist Temple) and Asakusa Shrine or hit up some of the various shopping lanes.
Ueno Park: Ueno Park is probably one of Japan's most well known parks. Besides being parkish, it's full of museums, shrines, temples, as well as the Ueno Zoo. Definitely the kind of place you fancier folks will enjoy. You can spend a whole day here, if you're into this kind of thing.
Roppongi Hills: Want to see Tokyo from somewhere up high? Come to Roppongi Hills. You can go up into the Mori tower and look down on all those tiny people. Pro Tip: They don't like it when you try to throw pennies off the observation deck. Also worth noting is the Mori Art Museum.
Kappabashi: Do you know how a lot of Japanese food places have fake foods outside showing you what the food looks like? There's a chance they got it at Kappabashi, the kitchen capital of Tokyo. You can buy things for your restaurant, but the best part is the fake food, I think. It's surprisingly expensive, too.

WESTERN TOKYO

Shibuya: Shibuya is just a ward of Tokyo, but it's particularly known for all its fashion and culture. Fashionistas should put it on their Japan itinerary. A lot of shopping can be found here, but there's also the Hachiko Dog Statue as well. Scope it out but come back in the "shopping days" at the end of your trip.
Love Hotel Hill: Technically this is part of Shibuya, but it's worth noting on its own. This is just an area with a lot of love hotels. Pro tip: They won't let three people in at a time, so if you want to check one out as a group, you'll have to break up into pairs or bring a body pillow.
Shinjuku: Shinjuku's kind of the party district, though that may be because of Kabukicho (northeast of Shinjuku Station) which is Tokyo's big red light district. If you're into nightclubs, bars, pachinko, neon, and other ahem things, this will be a place you'll enjoy.
Harajuku: Love crazy outfits? You'll fit in right here. Harajuku is home to Tokyo's teen fashion and cosplay (if you visit on a Sunday). There's also plenty of shopping and crepe stands as well (yum).
Meiji Shrine & Yoyogi Park: These two places are pretty close to each other, so I'm putting them together here too. It's also a good place to go from Harajuku, since you'll use the same train station. The Meiji Shrine is just one of many shrines in Japan, but it's particularly interesting if you're into modern Japanese history. Yoyogi Park, on the other hand, is just a really big park. Both are nice, though, if you're looking to get out of the cement jungle known as Tokyo.

DAY 5: MONKEY PARK, JIGOKUDANI

snow monkey outside a hot spring
Have you heard of those Japanese monkeys that hang out in the hot springs? This is one of those places, though depending on the time of year, they may not be spending too much time in the hot springs. I like this place in Winter, but other times are good as well. Summer means baby monkeys, after all. To get here, you'll have to go North of Tokyo to Nagano (Shinkansen it!). From Nagano Station, take Nagano Dentetsu to Yudanaka. From there, you can take a bus to the Kanbayashi Onsen, which has the entrance to the Jigokudani Yaen-Koen. It'll be a 30+ minute walk (depending on how much you stop) to get to the actual monkey area, though you may start seeing monkeys before then if you're lucky. Check out the livecam, too!
If you're going to Jigokudani, I'd maybe recommend heading up here at the end of Day 4 and staying the night in Nagano. There's some interesting things up there too (that's where they did the Winter Olympics in 1998!), so feel free to head up a bit earlier and check things out. Then, the next morning (Day 5) you can head out bright and early to Jigokudani and take your time with the monkeys and possibly hit the onsen. It's a nice place. Then, you can head on back to Tokyo the same night.

DAY 6: TOSHOGU SHRINE, NIKKO

japan travel at tokugawa ieyasu grave
Nikko is the mausoleum for Tokugawa Ieyasu. Basically, he and his relatives ruled over Japan as Shogun for 250 years (until the Meiji Restoration). That means he got a pretty sweet shrine. There are over a dozen Shinto and Buddhist buildings here, and it's in a very beautiful setting. Need some peace from Tokyo? You'll for sure get it here.
This can be a day trip (it's really close to Tokyo) with some extra time left over. I'd recommend coming here, then either checking out other things in this area or heading straight to Tokyo in the afternoon or evening. Just be sure to give yourself 3-4 hours to travel, so don't leave too late from here. Another option would be to leave the morning of Day 7 and get to Kyoto in the late morning or early afternoon. It's totally up to you.

DAY 7 & 8: KYOTO

collection of jizo statues in japan
*If you're on the 1-week plan, skip day 8 and go to Nara instead.
Kyoto's going to be your shrine and temple time while visiting Japan. Since it was the place where the emperor lived for over a thousand years, it's full of cool, historical things. Take your pick and enjoy. Also be sure to just walk around at random. You'll run into so many temple, castles, and shrines just by accident. It doesn't hurt to explore, some. Oh, and bring your walking shoes. Things are about to get… walky.

CENTRAL KYOTO

Nijo Castle: This was where Tokugawa Ieyasu lived (remember his shrine, up above?). Later it switched to an imperial palace (after the Shogunate went down), and then later opened to the public. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is supposedly a big deal.
Kyoto Imperial Palace: When the Shogunate was in power, this is where the imperial family lived. You can even take tours in English, here.

NORTHERN KYOTO

Kinkakuji: Also known as the golden pavilion, this is a building covered in gold.

WESTERN KYOTO

Kokedera: Also known as Saihoji, this is another UNESCO World Heritage Site (way to go, Kyoto). This temple is mainly known for its moss, and apparently has over 120 different varieties.

SOUTHERN KYOTO

Fushimi Inari Shrine: This shrine is known for its thousand torii gates. They're bright orange and absolutely incredible to walk through. Highly recommended.

EASTERN KYOTO

visting japan to see temples in kyoto
Source: Paul Mannix
Kiyomizudera: One of the must sees, I think (and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). This temple is high up on a hill and has a balcony that offers an awesome view.
Higashiyama District: You'll run into this on your way up to Kiyomizudera, actually. Think of this area as a "historic shopping district." Kind of touristy, but a lot of fun nonetheless. Grab something to take home!
Sanjusangendo: The building itself it's amazing, but the inside is pretty remarkable. There are 1001 statues of Kannon in here, which is… well… kinda remarkable.
Gion: Like Geisha? this is Kyoto's Geisha District. You will have to try pretty hard to get in to see a geiko, though, but good luck trying (hint: apparently some travel agencies will hook you up if you've got the yen).

DAY 9: NARA

traveling to japan to see nara deer
You can leave the morning of Day 9 or leave the evening of Day 10 and spend the night in Nara. Either is fine. You can even spend the night in Nara on Day 9 as well then move on early in the morning of Day 10. It all depends on how much you like temples and Deer.
While there's some neat temples, shrines, castles, and other similar things here in Nara, I'd say you're coming for deer. The deer here are pretty tame and will actually attack you if you have food (kinda fun to run from deer). Don't worry, they have their horns cut off, though (it's a religious thing), so you won't be stabbed through, most likely.
Places you'll want to go in Nara:
  • Todaiji Temple: Largest wooden structure in the world with Japan's largest Buddha statues inside. Basically, think super sized. Definitely one of the best places to visit in Nara.
  • Nara Park: Has a lot of deer. Go buy deer food, the deer will thank you.
  • Kofukuji Temple: Basically a big temple. Very pretty, though.
  • Nara National Museum: If you're interested in Japanese Buddhist Art, this will be a fun place for you. The building is also surrounded by ferocious, wild deer.
Consider this a day to walk around but not as much as when you were in Kyoto. Nara's a lot like Kyoto in a lot of ways, though, so I'd recommend mainly hitting up the deer and then hitting up Todaiji Temple. Depending on how worn out you are on temples, though, you can stay here longer or shorter, deciding where you stay this night based off of that.

DAY 10: MT. KOYA AKA KOYASAN

You'll want to make sure you leave early this day, whether you're leaving from Kyoto or Nara. You have a ways to go to get to Koya-san, quite possibly one of the most beautiful places in Japan (just my opinion). This might be one of the best places you go in your Japan travels.
There are a hundred temples here, many of which you can stay the night at. When you spend the night, you get the best vegetarian meal you've ever had (guaranteed), a room to stay in, and even the option to wake up (really) early to go watch the monks do their morning rituals. It's so peaceful, a lot of fun, and one of my favorite places on earth. You'll want to go to the Koyasan website for more information on lodging.
I'd recommend getting here as early as you can on Day 10, dropping off your things at the place you're staying, then just walk around. You'll be able to fill a good amount of time just exploring. The best place to walk, though? Probably the giant cemetery, which also happens to be the largest in Japan. Although some may find a graveyard creepy, it really is quite peaceful.
This, I think, will be one of your best days in Japan, so don't skimp out on it if possible! Just be sure to get back to your temple in time for dinner.

DAY 11: TRAVEL DAY / OSAKA / FUJI

a bullet train in japan
*If you're on the 1-week schedule, you'll need to get back to Tokyo. You're running out of days.
Day 11 is mostly travel. You'll want to leave Koya either late morning or early afternoon, depending on where you're going next. If you like shopping a lot, you'll want to get back to Tokyo on this day.
If you don't need the extra time, consider stopping in Osaka (it's on the way from Koyasan). You can visit the Glico Man, Osaka Tower, play some Pachinko, and eat some Takoyaki / Okonomiyaki (both famous in Osaka). It's a bit different than Tokyo, but it's still a big city. I'll leave this one up to you, though. Osaka's a lot of fun to just walk around and check out.
Alternatively, you could stop at Mt. Fuji on the way back too. I recommend the amusement park Fuji-Q Highland over climbing the mountain itself (it looks better from afar, you'll have to trust me on this one) if you do this. Definitely don't miss the horror house there, it's top notch.
Whatever you end up doing, you're reaching the end of your trip. Just make sure you're back in Tokyo in time to do your shopping before you get on the airplane to leave. Of course, if you don't shop, then you have more time to go to more places. If you do shop, get back to Tokyo.

DAY 12 & 13: SHOPPING IN TOKYO / LAST MINUTE VISITS

a storefront in tokyo
Source: Eric Bréchemier
Hopefully you scoped out all the places you wanted to shop at, because this is your shopping time. Get the things you want for yourself and for your friends / relatives. Fill up that duffel bag you brought / bought and have fun. This is also a good time to just go around to the places you missed.
Either way, it's good to be back in Tokyo a day or two before your flight leaves, that way you won't miss your flight (unless you want to "accidentally" miss it, wink wink nudge nudge).

DAY 14: GO HOME

Hope you had traveling to Japan. This is only your first trip, though. Now that you've gotten all the normal / main stuff out of the way, your next trip can be filled with strange, exciting places. Be sure to check out TofuguTV for some of those, and keep reading Tofugu for more in the future. There are certainly many, many "off-the-beaten-track" locations worth visiting, but we'll save that for next time!
 

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